1 May 2026

From Goolgowi shack to Borambola Shiraz: Gai Waterhouse’s Riverina homecoming

| By Marguerite McKinnon
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Australia’s queen of horseracing, Gai Waterhouse, holding a bottle of Borambola Wines signature Shiraz, Hiraji’s Spell, with chef Jamie Shepley and Borambola Wines Managing Director Tim McMullen.

Australia’s queen of horse racing, Gai Waterhouse, holds a bottle of Borambola Wines’ signature Shiraz, Hiraji’s Spell, with chef Jamie Shepley and Borambola Wines Managing Director Tim McMullen. Photo: Supplied.

The queen of Australian horse racing Gai Waterhouse has returned to the Riverina for a right royal nosh-up at Borambola Winery.

The 71-year-old is strongly connected with this region – her father Tommy J Smith grew up in a wooden shack in Goolgowi and Ms Waterhouse herself spent many summers as a teenager working at her uncle’s newsagency on Griffith’s Banna Avenue.

Managing Director of Borambola Wines Tim McMullen said having Ms Waterhouse back in the Riverina along with other racing elite for a private lunch this week ahead of Wagga’s Gold Cup was amazing.

“We paired the six-course meal with our wines and Gai especially liked our Hiraji’s Spell Shiraz, named after the horse that won the 1947 Melbourne Cup,” Tim McMullen said.

The four-year-old New Zealand-bred Thoroughbred racehorse, Hiraji, was raised and trained locally in Borambola’s paddocks before he was spelled back to Borambola after winning the 1947 Melbourne Cup.

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Borambola Wines’ horse history was kismet for the equine enthusiasts.

“They tried all of our wines which was great, and purchased more, so even better,” Tim said.

“The guests came from all parts of New South Wales and are major investors in horse racing, and they really just love the region, so they were looking to not only go to the races, but also enjoy what else we have here in Wagga.

“It was Gai’s (Waterhouse) first trip to Borambola Wines, and she gave me a huge hug and said that the day was absolutely brilliant, so yeah, it makes us feel really proud about what we do.”

Gair Waterhouse on outside table with cousin

Gai Waterhouse (right) with her cousin Christine Del Gigante in Griffith. The First Lady of Australian racing spent many summers with Christine in the Riverina when growing up. Photo: Oliver Jacques.

The luxury of Borambola was in stark contrast to her legendary horse racing father’s humble upbringing in the Riverina, which laid the foundation for his success.

“His family were very poor and life was tough,” she told Region on a previous visit to Griffith.

“My father had to trap rabbits and try and sell them on the side of the railways to earn money.

“He was a brilliant man, able to seize whatever opportunity came his way and make the most of it. That enabled him to move up the ladder.”

Years later, a teenage Gai would jump into her dad’s Rolls Royce and he’d drive her through the country and drop her off in Griffith, where she’d spend a few weeks before each Christmas living within her cousin Christine Del Gigante.

“Christine’s father was Ken Cullen, the local butcher; I’d stay with his family not far from Banna Avenue while I worked in the news agency owned by Pat Smith (uncle). That was my summer holiday routine; it gave me many of the skills I now employ in my business,” she said.

“I had really fond memories of being here. Christine and I fought like cats and dogs; we were typical teenage girls, but we got on like a house on fire and still do.”

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Equally proud of how this week’s Wagga lunch went for the queen of horse racing was Wagga’s Prince of Wales restaurant “Spare” owner and chef, Jamie Shepley.

chef serving food

Gai Waterhouse being served Murray Cod by chef Jamie Shepley at Borambola Winery yesterday. The private function of equine enthusiasts preceded today’s Gold Cup Race meet. Photo: supplied.

“We wanted to showcase local food so we had some Murray cod and local lamb, along with canapes to start,” Mr Shepley said.

He said it was exciting to cook for someone as high-profile as Gai Waterhouse.

“She really enjoyed the Murray cod, and she was just so lovely. We talked for a long time.”

Gai Waterhouse will be trackside when her six-year-old Irish bay gelding “Bear on the Loose” lines up for the 2000-metre Wagga Gold Cup that is scheduled to run at 4:20 pm on Friday (1 May), before a sell-out crowd of more than 10,000.

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